Beijing Bicycle Tours

Set out from Chang'an Jie, north of Tiananmen Square, and head up Beichang Jie, the road running just to the west of the Forbidden City. This is Zhongnanhai, the political nerve center of Beijing, named for the two lakes of Zhong Hai (Middle Sea) and Nan Hai (South Sea). Beijing's leaders control the destiny of the land from here, hidden away behind the wall on your left.

Ahead is Beihai Park (1), the stomping ground of the Yuan dynasty emperors. Strike out west along Wenjin Jie and, if you are feeling energetic, continue west to Fuchengmennei Dajie and the Guangji Temple and the White Dagoba Temple. If not, turn right into Xishiku Dajie where you will see the twin spires of the Gothic North Cathedral (Bei Tang) (2), with its rather gaudy gray and white paintwork. This monument to Christianity in Beijing is the third of this name to have been built. It was unsuccessfully besieged by the Boxers in a gripping chapter of the 1900 uprising and then served as a school during the Cultural Revolution and later as a warehouse. Now it is once more an active place of worship. The church's Jesuit sisters, the baroque South Cathedral and the marvelous St. Joseph's Church on Wangfujing Dajie, both endured repeated destruction.

Keep going north up to Di'anmen Xidajie and turn right. After about half a mile, turn left up Longtoujing Jie opposite the north of Beihai Park and continue up Liuyin Jie after the junction with Qianhai Xijie.

At No. 14 is the marvelous Mansion of Prince Gong (Gongwangfu) (3), originally the home of a high-ranking Manchu official (14 Liuyin Jie, $). This abode is considered to be the inspiration behind the great house in Dream of the Red Mansions (also called Story of the Stone), written by Cao Xueqin circa 1715-1763. The book is considered one of the greatest Chinese novels, written in a semiclassical vernacular. The mansion consists of a series of elegant courtyards enclosed by rocky arrangements and walls and gardens threaded with restful walks.

Backtrack to the crossroads. Turn east along Qianhai Xijie to the fringes of the Shicha Qian Hai Lake and cross the bridge.

Turn left and run along the edge of the Shicha Hou Hai Lake with the Guanghua Temple (4) on your right, to the Former Residence of Song Qingling (46 Beiheyan Lu., $). Song Qingling's life with her husband, Dr. Sun Yat-sen, is faithfully recorded in a collection of her possessions and in photographs here.

Explore the myriad lanes and routes in this area. Just follow them and see what turns up. Otherwise, cut through to Gulou Xidajie and cycle down to the Bell Tower (Zhonglou) (5). First erected in the early Ming dynasty, it was burnt down and rebuilt by the Qing. The huge bell rang as city gates closed at night. You can climb up the steep steps for a view over to the nearby Drum Tower (Gulou Dongdajie, $).

The Drum Tower (Gulou) stands on the remains of the original 13th-century structure, and from it a drum used to beat the hours of the day and night. The night was divided into five two-hour periods: the Wu period (7-9 p.m.), the Hai period (9-11 p.m.), the Zi period (11 p.m.-1 a.m.), the Chou period (1-3 a.m.), and the Yin period (3-5 a.m.). Time was measured with a water clock. From the top of the Drum Tower you can get an excellent view over the old rooftops of this historic quarter.

You are now on the edges of the block of hutongs. The area is really worth exploring by bike, if you still have the energy. It's not a mad rush, and you can take your time along the narrow lanes that make up this quiet world.

Inside this complex of thoroughfares lies the Former Residence of Mao Dun (Mao Dun Guju) (6). The name Mao Dun sounds exactly like the word "contradiction" in Chinese, and it was the nom de plume of Shen Yanbing (1896-1981), one of China's most famous modern novelists. The building is a modest but charming siheyuan (four-walled courtyard), replete with the author's effects (Closed Sun., Mon., Wed., & Fri., $).

The small Wenchengxiang Temple (Wenchengxiangci) can be found just to the east on Wenchengxiang Hutong. The truly energetic should continue through the hutongs and head north along Dongsi Beidajie to the Buddhist Lama Temple and the Confucius Temple.

Otherwise, turn right along Dongsi Beidajie and right again at the crossroads into Di'anmen Dongdajie. On your right you will pass the attractively fronted Princess Hejing Palace (Hejing Gongzhufu) and the Former Occasional Residence of Sun Zhongshan (7) (13 Houyuanensi Hutong). Continue along Di'anmen Dongdajie and turn left onto Di'anmennei Dajie; follow it down to the left of Jingshan Park, east of Beihai Park. The view from the peak of Jingshan Park offers an excellent sweep over the Forbidden City.

From here head south along Beichizi Dajie, which runs east of the Forbidden City, taking you back to Tiananmen Square.